So, what do you do in Buenos Aires? Uhhh, nothing? Well, if you’re looking to for creative ways to pass the time and explore Buenos Aires, read on!
boluda: (n) moron, slow witted individual
taller: (n) workshop, car garage or artistic
Meet Annie Ofew. She recently graduated from the University of Michigan and came to Buenos Aires to learn Spanish and live la vida loca . Annie spends a few months partying in Palermo, taking the obligatory Spanish language classes and doing some sightseeing. Looks like she’s done here. The only problem is that she happens to have fallen in love with Buenos Aires. She’s not ready to go. Her inner monologue goes something like this:
Mini floating devil: Annie, you are jobless and homeless in the US, stay in Buenos Aires!
Mini floating angel: Annie, you’re broke. Go home and get a job.
Mini floating devil: Boluda ! There are no jobs there!
Mini floating angel: But your parents miss you and your college boyfriend is waiting for you to return!
Mini floating devil: Your parents have secretly moved to a one-bedroom condo in Florida and last night at Rumi you gave your number to seven different guys.
Mini floating angel: But what on Earth will you do all day in Buenos Aires? What kind of life can you lead?
Mini floating devil: Oh angelito, Buenos Aires is built and maintained by people whose first priority is living well and second priority is work and progress. Let the Porteños show our sweet Annie how it’s done.
Porteños have mastered the art of filling their days with sun, fun and social interactions under the clever guise of work, study and their much-loved rest. In contrast to the United States or Europe, where work and study is neither sunny nor funny, Buenos Aires provides many opportunities for us foreigners to experience this daily balance of accomplishment and enjoyment.
For Annie Ofew, it’s easy to sit in her house or in the nearby plaza and do nothing all day. You can do that for about two months before realizing you are broke, have gained 20 lbs and miss your mommy. You will not find the aforementioned balance this way. To keep yourself from pissing away your beautiful Buenos Aires days, use the following article in order to best take advantage of what this big city has to offer. If you’re like Annie–living in Buenos Aires, not looking for a full-time job or university degree, but still wanting to live a reasonably productive life while slowly chipping away at that big bank account of bar mitzvah money back home–your options fall into two categories: clowns and cultural centers.
Clown
Clown is the local name of the profession of circus-try and represents the opportunity for Annie to take classes and become skilled in any one of the following areas: acrobatics, street performance, juggling, make-up artistry, costume design and murga . One of the things that makes Buenos Aires so appealing is that the majority of the young people you meet are either artists, musicians, clowns or some other profession where you don’t have to wake up at 7 am and the only rule is ‘be creative.’ It’s a miracle that these people can live on whatever they earn, but they do, and you can too!
The first step to get involved in clown is to take a class. There are talleres in every neighborhood in Buenos Aires and you can find them online, or simply by keeping an eye out for signs. Ads for clown classes are posted all over building walls and bus stop poles around town. Don’t be afraid! Call that number and go check it out.
Acrobatics! For those hailing from the Maryland/DC area, this is a Marva-Tots dream! From sailing through the air on trapezes to climbing and dangling from beautiful ropes, acrobatics is good for your mind and body. These activities help integrate thinking and doing, while giving your muscles a good workout.
Street performance includes impromptu acting and general ‘clowning around’ in public. Those in Buenos Aires may have noticed dirty hippies juggling at big intersections and then passing through the cars with a hat to collect tips. These are not bums! These are clown students out on assignment for their class. (Don’t confuse these with the real hippie bums who have wet themselves and want to wash your windshield.)
Make-up artistry and costume design are great ways to get involved in clown while having your parents think you are in the fashion industry. In addition to clown classes, there are also many classes for special effects design. Check out www.studiofx.com.ar for information on how to study special effects with the pros.
Murga, the last but not least of the clown arena, can be thought of as clown as a team sport. If you have heard loud drumming from your window at the same time each week, you have probably been listening to a murga practice. Murga is a form of musical theater involving a chorus of dancers and a group of 3-6 drummers. There are special murga dances (not difficult to learn) that are performed to the beat of the drums. All murgas have their own specific costume, which invariable includes sequins, bright satins, bells, whistles and the kitchen sink. The drumming is very exciting and generally includes a redoblante (snare drum), bombo (a shallow bass drum played horizontally and worn at the waist) and platillos (clash cymbals).
The best part about clown is that everyone at home will think you are ridiculous. But you are the one having all the fun and learning outside the box.
Cultural Centers
Cultural centers connect porteños to the art, music, education and creative thinking that breathe life and soul into Buenos Aires. Each neighborhood has its own centro cultural and most offer history and information concerning the area, as well as classes open to the public. Many classes are free or have a very low fee and include activities such as folklore dancing, tango dancing, massage, painting, English language acquisition and miscellaneous lectures.
There are also many cultural centers bearing the name of a famous historical figure such as Centro Cultural Borges located downtown or Espacio Cultural Carlos Gardel located in Chacarita. These centers pay homage to their namesakes in the form of theater and arts classes as well as special performances.
Those living in Recoleta should stop by the Centro Cultural Recoleta located by the Recoleta cemetery. This center always has excellent art exhibits, as well as art classes open to the community.
Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas, located near Abasto, is part of the excellent (and free!) University of Buenos Aires (UBA). This center has a huge listing of classes, both cultural and vocational, taught by PhD’s from UBA. Cultural courses fall under the following categories: fine arts, art and architecture, circo (clown), dance, science and humanities, film, photography, music, theater, design, languages, literature and communication. Vocational courses fall under these categories: education, therapy, psychology, information sciences, communication, foreign languages, administration, small businesses, home repair, design and tourism. The courses cost about $10 – $90 USD per semester. Do more research at www.rojas.uba.ar .
Now, between running off to the circus and taking a course in 20th-Century Latin American art, Annie Ofew should be feeling pretty good right about now. These ideas offer a great way to meet local people, pick up new skills and feel great about living in Buenos Aires.
Madi Lang
LPBA Staff
