Excursions, travel in Argentina, The Lake District

Planning a Trip to Bariloche

Liza Burkin

By | March 16, 2020

Nestled into the foothills of the Andes and built next to the stunning Nahuel Huapi Lake, San Carlos de Bariloche is the nature-lovers Nirvana. Here we breakdown what to do, where to eat, and the best nightlife in this Patagonian paradise.

Whether in the winter for ski season or the summer for rafting, kayaking, sailing, hiking, trekking or biking, Bariloche is a haven for the outdoorsy. My first, admittedly nerdy thought upon taking in its breathtaking landscapes dotted with pristine lakes, fog-enclosed mountain peaks and lush forests was that it looks exactly like the New Zealand set of Lord of the Rings. After spending a month in the heat and humidity of the Buenos Aires summer, the delicious mid-60’s temperatures and fresh mountain air of this resort town was just what the doctor ordered.

Planning your trip to Bariloche

The first decision to make when planning a trip to Bariloche is whether to brave the 20-hour bus trip or spring for the considerably more expensive two-hour plane ride. Either way will get you to Bariloche relatively hassle-free, it just depends on your wallet and schedule. Next, don’t fret over finding hotel vacancies. There are hundreds of hostels, hotels and resorts throughout the city. Most are located along the main road on the lake, along with restaurants, bars and shopping. This road changes names as it meanders along the lake, so most refer to specific locations by their distance in kilometers from downtown. Example: Estoy quedando en Hotel Condor, entre kilometros seis y siete (I’m staying at Hotel Condor between kilometers six and seven). It may sound confusing on paper, but makes perfect sense when physically in Bariloche.

Skiing, rafting, hiking and biking in Bariloche

Once the basics are down then it’s time to start planning the fun stuff! If visiting in the winter, skiing at Cerro Catedral, one of the biggest ski centers in South America, is a must. The summertime, however, offers a variety of options. High intensity whitewater rafting on the Manso River is a great activity for thrill-seekers. Aguas Blancas is a company headquartered in Bariloche that will take you for an 11-hour adventure to the class-3 rapids two hours away on the Chilean border. While the tour comes with a heftier price tag, the trip also includes two enormous and delicious meals (a large breakfast and an afternoon asado), pick-up and drop-off at your hotel, all the necessary equipment and a rafting experience you’ll never forget. If wary of extreme rapids, however, it might be best to choose a different activity. The Argentine class-3s are nothing like what you’ll find back in the States. Falling out of the boat isn’t exactly uncommon, but the helpful and funny guides will be sure to kayak you to safety.

As far as hiking goes, there are trails galore for every duration and intensity. Just ask the concierge where you’re staying or anyone with a backpack on the street what their favorite hike is and go explore! The 7,500 km Nahuel Huapi National Park encompasses all of Bariloche and the surrounding mountains, lakes, forests and plains. For those of a lazier disposition who still want to see the dazzling high altitude views, Cerro Campanario (Av. Bustillo km 17) is a small ski mountain about 20 minutes away town that offers chairlift service. At the top, there is a charming café that serves delicious desserts and offers spectacular 360º views. To traverse more ground in less time, considering exploring the mountains on bike. There are many bike rental companies in town, or to get a jump start on your ride, take a bus to kilometer 18, where you’ll find Cordillera Bike Rentals and Tours. In addition to renting bikes, Cordillera also operates biking tours for those who would rather go with a group and a guide.

Bariloche Nightlife

After full days of adventuring and a much-needed siesta, it’s time to hit the Bariloche nightlife.

Restaurants

As in Buenos Aires and other cities throughout Argentina, meat is the foundation of the Bariloche diet. For the most part, the beef is juicy and delicious, and costs about the same as in Buenos Aires. For a delectable and traditional Argentine meal, head to El Boliche de Alberto, a cozy family-owned establishment. There are two locations, one downtown and about 15 minutes away which might be closer to some hotels (Villegas 347 and Av. Bustillo km 5.8) The simple menu and enormous steaks grilled to perfection are reason enough to splurge on this delicious parrilla. To sample some cuisine more unique to Patagonia head to Criadero Truchas Colonia Suiza (8400 Bariloche). Criadero Truchas Colonia Suiza is located right on the Perito Moreno Lake (not to be confused with the glacier of the same name that is also definitely worth a visit), about 30 minutes outside the town of Bariloche. This rustic restaurant and market specializes in local seafood, and serves some of the freshest and most delicious trout in Bariloche.

Breweries

The craft beer boom in Argentina may have only arrived to Buenos Aires in the last 10 years or so, but the artisanal brewery scene has been thriving in Bariloche for decades. One of the most popular spots for locals and tourist alike is Manush. With one location right in town, and another a little outside of the city, Manush fills up every day of the week. In addition to their extensive beer list, their food menue offers both traditional bar food and Argentinean staples, along with beer pairing suggestions. Wilkenny (San Martín 435) an Irish pub in the heart of downtown, is a popular hangout for young travelers, and at night it turns into a pretty decent party. Skip the food there, however, like many Irish pubs in Buenos Aires, the fare is a cross between Argentinean and Irish cuisine that doesn’t quite deliver. Farther up the road on a beautiful hill sits Berlina(Av. Bustillo km 11.75), a cervecería of much higher quality in terms of both beer and food. They have a large selection of beers on tap and offer good deals on pints during happy hour from 6:00 pm to 8:00 pm. If you’ve passed through Buenos Aires, you’ve probably seen a Patagonia Cervecería, which now has locations all over the country. The flagship is in Bariloche, and while the beers are delicious, the real reason to pay this spot a visit are the sweeping views of the surrounding crystal-clear lakes.

Clubs

As for later in the evening, Bariloche is home to several clubs and even a casino! El Casino de Bariloche (Av. San Martín 535) is small, smoky and filled with locals betting on low-stakes games. If you’re feeling lucky, it can be a great stop before going out. Two blocks down from Wilkenny’s is Roket (Juan Manuel de Rosas 424), a dance club with 5 floors, 4 bars, high tech lasers and a killer sound system. Other hot spots nearby include La Cantina (Avenida J.M de Rosas 523), a more laid-back reggae bar, and Cerebro (Juan Manuel de Rosas 406) another spacious dance club. If in need, all are walking distance from the cabstand outside the casino. Like in Buenos Aires, the clubs don’t open until around midnight, with peak hours between 3:00 and 4:00 am.

Chocolate in Bariloche

For other post-exercise indulgences, be sure to explore Bariloche’s countless chocolaterías. Famous for this traditional Andean dessert, there really is a chocolate shop on every corner, sometimes three. Throughout the region, the chocolate is mouthwatering, inexpensive and handcrafted. Some of the best brands include Mamuschka (Mitre 298) and Rapa Nui (Mitre R8400). For buying souvenirs and gifts, El Reino de Chocolate (Mitre 301) has beautifully gift-wrapped packages of chocolate in every variety and flavor.

Overall, Bariloche can provide a beautiful escape from the headaches of big city life, a true connection with the wonders of the natural world, a fun place to meet fellow travelers and glorious satisfaction for chocolate lovers.

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