Travel South America, Chile

What to do in Valparaíso, Chile

Jacqueline Berkery

By | April 16, 2010

Aerial shot of the colorful cliffside houses in Valparaíso

Valparaíso, the bohemian port city on the Chilean coast is known for picturesque views and graffiti adorned cliffside homes. Once considered the ”jewel of South America,” this historic city is a must-see while traveling through Chile.

Located a mere 2 hour bus ride from Santiago, the city of Valparaíso is built on 42 hills along the Pacific coast. A port city by nature, it has all of the characteristics of a city run by sailors– port life is still alive and kicking, especially in the flat neighborhoods adjacent to the waterfront. The main attraction of the city is its colorful hillsides, spotted with bright pastel-painted homes, unique street art, and century-old funiculars (ascensors). In fact, the town is so culturally intriguing that it was named a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2003.

If you’re looking to shed a couple pounds or work on those calves, you’ve come to the right place. Almost everything you’ll want to do or see will require scaling the city’s many hills, a tough but worthy feat. Most hills have funiculars that will take you to the top but be sure to walk up a few! The winding roads that lead to the hilltops are filled with street art and culture.

Best Photo-Ops

1. Paseo 21 de Mayo on Cerro Artillería gives a nice view of the bay and the cranes and containers stacked on the bustling Valpo port. Take the Acensor Artillería to the top from Plaza Aduana.
2. Mirador Diego Portales on Cerro Barón is one of the best views of all of Valparaíso’s vibrant hillsides. Take the bus or metro to Barón– no need to use the ascensor, as the walk up is short and easy.
3. Cerro Cordillera can be somewhat rough, so be careful. However, there’s a beautiful viewpoint on Calle Merlet.
4. Museo a Cielo Abierto is an open-air art museum, nestled in an alley on Cerro Bellavista, and is directly accessible via the Asensor Espíritu Santo.

Isla Negra

In the true spirit of the country, you may also decide to take a day to honor one of Chile’s favorite celebrities. Beloved Chilean poet Pablo Neruda is not only known for his beautiful words, but his fabulous houses. Yes, he owned many homes, several of which are accessible from Valparaiso. Although, the truth is that if you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. So, unless you are Neruda’s biggest diehard fan, take my advice and only visit Isla Negra. Though it certainly isn’t the most convenient of his homes to get to, I’d wager that Neruda’s estate in Isla Negra is one of the prettiest. A beachside cottage, his home sits next to the crashing waves of the Pacific. So, after you’ve spent an hour perusing his many collections and ship-themed house, you can relax on the small cove beach next door. Get a little culture, get a little tan… it’s the perfect day trip. The home is about an hour outside of the city by bus– check for tickets at the Pullman desk in the main bus station.

Public Transportation

Public transportation in the city isn’t fancy, but it’s easy to use and a good way to get around. The buses will take you almost anywhere and are an affordable alternative to taxis. The newly constructed metro system runs along the shore and is clean, fast, and modern.

Safety

A note on safety: Valparaíso is a safe place, and you shouldn’t feel intimidated or scared to explore this fascinating cultural hotspot. However, as anywhere in the world, it’s important to be aware of your surroundings and be cautious of your belongings. Don’t whip out your iPhone on the bus or when strolling the port. It’s simply a matter of street smarts. At one point on our trip, we were shooed away from Cerro Cordillera by a police officer who felt that it was unsafe for three young girls to be there alone. I’m not saying don’t visit that hill (as it does have some lovely views)– just be smart. The port area of town is also still lively and traditional in nature. To put it bluntly, here’s where you’ll find lots of liquor stores and brothels. Though it’s not dangerous, this is the seediest part of town, and you should be aware of that when strolling its narrow corridors.

Viña del Mar

You should consider reserving an extra day or two to check out Valparaiso’s nearby sister city, Viña del Mar.

Just 20 minutes up the coast, this small beach town is a popular vacation destination for Chileans, and a great place to spend a few days in the sun.The beach is reason enough to schedule an extra day here. Full of colorful umbrellas, tanned bodies and crashing waves, this stretch of sand is both lively and relaxing at the same time.

After spending the day in town and on the beach, your hard work deserves a nice cocktail. Check out Enjoy del Mar on the water at Avenida Peru. This seaside spot is perfect for sunset drinks and a tasty dinner if you hang around long enough.The easiest way to get there is by taking the metro, which runs from Valparaíso along the shoreline to Viña del Mar. If you’re going straight to the beach, get off at Estación Miramar and walk the few blocks to the water. If you prefer to check out the town first, stay on the metro one stop further until Estación Viña del Mar, which will drop you at the main town square.

Unless you plan to enjoy the Viña beaches for more than a couple of days, there’s no real reason to stay in town. You’re better off staying in Valparaíso and taking the short train ride to the beach.

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