Buenos Aires Map Guide, Caballito Neighborhood

Caballito Neighborhood Guide

Madalyn Roberg

By | September 14, 2019

Parque Rivadavia in Caballito

Neighborhood guide for the Caballito barrio in Buenos Aires. We break down the vibe, things to do and the best restaurants and bars.

La Onda (The Vibe) 

Caballito may not be the trendiest place in Buenos Aires, but it has become the hot spot for locals. It is the quieter sibling of Recoleta, but without the reputation, tradition or cemetery. Think cobblestone stone streets, leafy parks, and a few cool restaurants and breweries to choose from. The crime rate is also exceptionally low for a middle-class neighborhood, making Caballito a must-see if you feel like soaking in some authentic, local culture.

For foreigners who appreciate a more local vibe, or are looking to save money on rent, Caballito is a solid and safe neighborhood to live in. However, travelers will probably be better off staying in a neighborhood that has more going on. Palermo, Recoleta, Puerto Madero and San Telmo all have much closer proximity to can’t-miss-sights, famous museums, and exciting nightlife.

History 

Caballito is, more or less, the quintessential middle-class neighborhood in Buenos Aires. It is located right in the heart of the city and boasts the largest residential area, as well.The name Caballito (little horse) comes from the local odds and ends store erected by Don Nicolás Vila in 1821 on what is today Rivadavia and Emilio Mitre. Passers-by couldn’t help but notice the towering weather vane in the form of, you guessed it, a little horse. Typical of most westerly barrios, Caballito experienced tremendous growth with the arrival of the railroad in 1857. In this neighborhood, the tracks run through the middle of the busiest areas, and hence, the station also adopted the name Caballito.

Fun Fact: February 15 was declared Caballito Day in 2002. To celebrate, there are usually special activities and events at the parks, and some restaurants offer special deals.

What to do in Caballito

Outdoor Market at Parque Rivadavia

Caballito’s main attraction would have to be the Tuesday-Sunday outdoor market at Parque Rivadavia. Here, you can find everything from a 1984 Rolling Stone magazine to a worthy chess opponent three times your age.

See a replica of Caballito’s namesake weather vane

At the Primera Junta Plaza you can see the exact replica of the original Caballito weathervane. Wandering away from Rivadavia in any direction will most certainly take you into a residential area with quaint apartments, the occasional cobblestone road and an abundance of friendly faces.

Parque Cenentario

This large urban green space was originally constructed in the early 1900s, but fell into decay toward the end of the century. Then, about ten years ago the park was returned to its further glory thanks to a complete renovation. Complete with fountains, sculptures, murals, a swan-lake and an amphitheater, this scenic park makes for a chill spot to relax. Head over on a Sunday to catch a tango show at the amphitheater, take a stroll or have a picnic.

Mercado del progreso

Originally constructed in the late 1800s as an outdoor market, Mercado del progresso is a relic of old school Caballito. Excluding the addition of the art deco roof in the early 1900s, this farmers market has changed very little since its establishment. This covered market has vendors selling everything from fresh produce, meat, cheeses, and seafood to grains, sauces and honey. You’ll find a similar selection and quality of products as the San Telmo market for less.

Exterior shot of the trendy Patio de Los Lecheros in the Caballito neighborhood of Buenos Aires

Patio de los Lecheros

Eating and Drinking

Caballito certainly isn’t known for its gastronomy scene, but there are a few diamonds in the rough to be discovered. When heading to Caballito for lunch or dinner you can except down to earth vibes and more local price points.

Restaurants

For the best burger in Caballito, check out Tierra de Nadie. This quaint hole in the wall is serving up juicy burgers on perfectly toasted house made buns. One glance at one of their creations and your mouth is guaranteed to start watering. Make sure to go hungry and order one of their deluxe offerings like the DCDQ, a monstrosity piled high with double meat, triple cheese, bacon, pickles and their oh so delicious secret sauce.

Patio de Lecheros (patio of the milkmen) is an open-air food court tucked in the heart of Caballito. The industrial site is a former train station, named after the milkmen that would arrive there from the providences to sell their dairy to the residents of the city. Easily the trendiest hotspot in Caballito, Patio de los lecheros has food trucks, a beer garden, produce market and often hosts DJs or live bands on the weekends. Whether you’re craving shawarma, paella, Mexican or a classic Argentine parrilla, the diverse range of cuisine on offer has something for everyone.

Bars

Of the several new cervecerías that have found their home in Caballito over the last five years Club de Birra one of our favorites. Thanks to the ample indoor and outdoor seating, a sleek new beer garden, and a good selection of craft beer on tap, this has become to the place to be on a Friday or Saturday night in Caballito. For a unique beer that’s hoppy and bitter yet fruity, try the maracuyá IPA. Other good cervecerías in the area include Belgíca and El Fermentador.

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