No trip to Argentina is be complete without a trip to Iguazú. In fact, returning home without a picture of the falls to accompany a colorful snapshot of La Boca really would be a crying shame. Second only to Victoria Falls in Africa, the Iguazú waterfalls are absolutely breathtaking.
The falls are surrounded by some of the most beautiful scenery and exotic wildlife in Argentina. The Iguazú National Park is a subtropical forest with winding catwalks guiding you through view after view of the 275 falls along 2.7 kilometers of the Iguazú River. Some of the individual falls are up to 82 meters high and create quite a splash.
The park consists of five main attractions, ample activity for an entire day’s worth of exploring. I suggest starting with the upper circuit, viewing the top of the falls and the Rio Iguazú Superior, the instigator of it all. It is hard to imagine that such a placid river can create such wild chaos just feet away.
Next, take a leisurely hike around the lower circuit for spectacular views of the falls, great for wearing out the shutter button on your camera. Toward the bottom of the lower circuit, you can take a short boat ride to the San Martin Island. This little island hike also should not be missed, as it offers one of the best views of the falls. The boat to the island runs only until 3pm, so watch the time. Ojo! For this part you’ll need a rain jacket because the mist from the falls can shower you a bit.
Since you’re already a bit damp, now would be a great time to hop on the boat into the falls. Be prepared to get totally wet as you zip wildly around the river. The boat drivers find great pleasure in offering an explosive, near-death experience as they drive the boat directly into the falls. Be sure to smile for the cameraman in the front. “Have a nice shower,” he says as you pull away from the dock.
Saving the best for last, hop on the train to Garganta del Diablo (Devils Throat). This U-shaped, 150-meter-wide, 700-meter-long conglomerate of water is sublime, and will leave you both shocked and awed.
If wildlife is your thing, you can see a plethora of native birds, including toucans and hummingbirds, some of which will eat right out of your hand. When crossing the river to the Garganta del Diablo, keep your camera handy for the hams perched on the rocks, funny little birds that pose for the camera, wings outstretched and head cocked to the side. Coatis are everywhere, begging for food and holding conversation with visitors. Ojo! These little buggers are aggressive when it comes to cheating you out of your lunch. Keep all food stored in your backpack and resist the urge to pet them, they are not as cuddly as they look. The park is home to many endangered species, including the elusive jaguar and harpy eagles.
Admission for non-Argentine residents is $60 and tickets for the wet and wild boat ride are $75 and can be purchased either at the bus station or inside the park along the lower circuit.
There is a shuttle service from the hostels and hotels taking you to the Iguazú National Park. However, if you partied all night and missed the 10 am shuttle, El Practico, a local bus, runs from the bus station to the park for $5 each way and leaves every 30 minutes until 7 pm.
The town of Iguazú is a fun and funky tourist town with a slue of pizza shops, souvenir stores, and one nightclub. The food is generally cheap and quite delicious. Tango Bar, toward the center of town, has a running special that is so cheap you feel like you’re ripping them off, a large cheese pizza and bottle of beer for two is just $15.
Have a second day to kill? Brazil boasts an adventure filled park a one-hour bus ride away to Foz do Iguaçu. This park spreads out over a much larger area, but the trails to view the falls will only keep you occupied for an hour or two. You can spend the rest of the day floating on the river in a rented kayak, or riding a bicycle around the many nature trails throughout the forest, but watch out for jaguars looking for lunch. The Brazilian side offers views of the whole range of falls and an elevator to the top for a bird’s eye view. That raincoat will come in handy here, as well.
Puerto Iguazú has many hotels and hostels surrounding the bus station. One needs only to walk a few blocks and pick one out. The Marcopolo Inn is a full service hostel located directly across the street from the bus station, quick and easy. They offer private rooms and dorms. Dorms run $40 a night or $35 for Hosteling International members. If you are feeling fancy, there are hotels within a few blocks of the bus station in any direction. The town of Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil offers the same convenient lodging. The nice folks at the first hotel or hostel will certainly make reservations for you as these two border towns work closely together as one tourist destination.
The 20-hour bus ride between Buenos Aires and Iguazú can certainly seem daunting, but the Argentine busses are designed for comfort. It’s a lot like sitting on the couch for a very long time. A full cama upgrade is well worth the money and with the perks of whiskey, wine and champagne served with your evening dinner and a movie, it will prove to be a wise choice. Busses leave every hour or so from the Retiro bus station. Ticket prices, ranging from $215 to $310 and bus schedules can be found on the website. http://www.omnilineas.com/
Kate Herr
LPBA Staff
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