La Boca is that famous postcard neighborhood we all see in travel books with the varying bright colors painted randomly on the improvised corrugated metal siding. The neighborhood, much like their soccer team Boca Juniors, strive to preserve that which is loved- their past, their roots.
La Onda (The general vibe): In La Boca you’ll find tango’s roots, Boca Juniors football and the old port. The tourist friendly area El Camanito is well-protected by police and local business owners alike. However, the overall area of this old Porteño neighborhood is known for being rough so night visits and straying off the tourist path are not recommended. Great for pictures, picking up some souvenirs, taking in some street performed tango.
What not to miss in La Boca
1. El Camanito: Lined with tango dancers, artists, street performers, restaurants and souvenir shops. It is one of the most historical landmarks in Buenos Aires. The birthplace of the port.
2. Boca Juniors stadium “La Bombonera”: Home to one of the most popular international soccer teams in the world, this stadium offers museum and stadium tours daily.
3. PROA museum: One of the best museums in Buenos Aires with a wide open terrace cafe on the top floor.
4. Benito Quinquela Martin’s Museum: The man responsable for the development of El Camanito and the tourism in La Boca.
5. La Boca’s outdoor market: A small artisan goods market
Attractions and Things to Do:
1.The most popular attraction in La Boca is El Caminito. This area is surrounded by colorful housing, tango memorabilia, cafes, asado restaurants, souvenir stores, art shops and artisan stands. On the weekends couples perform traditional tango dances and many local artists display their brightly colored collections. This area is a must-see in Buenos Aires.
2. “La Bombonera” (Boca Juniors’ stadium) is nearby and open for tours everyday except Boca Juniors game days. Match days can be very exciting, seeing as Boca Juniors are one of the two most popular teams in South America (River Plate being another and also coincidentally has roots in La Boca!). For those uninitiated futbol fans La Bombonera has been home to some of the world’s greatest Argentinian soccer players and has an almost mythical ground that is on many soccer fans’ bucket lists. In recent years there has been a push to expand or completely redo the stadium, but those efforts were torpedoed by an overwhelming counter movement comprised of powerful La Boca businessmen, traditionalists and ex-players. Tickets are not sold to the public and the stadium is mainly occupied by season ticket holders. Packages are available here.
*Careful flashing money, cameras, or anything of value inside or outside this stadium, especially without a group or guide.
3. The PROA museum, located right at entry of El Caminito is one of Buenos Aires’ more famous private centers boasting a mixture of up and coming Argentine artists, international exhibits and established South American talent. To see what exhibits are present or will be present check their schedule here.
4. 1835 Pedro de Mendoza Street houses Benito Quinquela Martin’s Museum. The museum was originally the home of this famous local artist and the founder of the La Boca artist colony, and displays many of his works. In his later years he became a philanthropist donating his art, land and buildings to charities and helping La Boca recover its image by resurrecting El Caminito.
5. An outdoor artisans market is set up and broken down daily just at the entrance to the El Camanito area. Participants vary through out the year, but generally expect to find Argentine themed wares and souvenirs. Pricing can be better than the shops located further in La Boca as the artists have no employees, taxes or utilities to pay.
Safety and Map of La Boca
Safety in La Boca should be taken into consideration. The surrounding area has been known to attract petty theft so travelers should stay within the area patrolled by police and the shops that survive on tourism. Consider business hours and daylight when planning your visit to La Boca. It is recommended to remain aware of your surroundings and belongings.
Transportation: Buses 64, 29, 152 all stop at the port of La Boca near El Caminito. Subway C line stop San Juan is the closest, but it is not recommended to walk in and out of La Boca. Taxi in and out as the easiest options telling the cab driver “El Caminito en La Boca”.
La Boca’s History, 101:
La Boca originally developed as housing for the African slaves of Argentina in the 16th century. Since this area is nearby both railway lines and the city’s main port, many of Buenos Aires’ first slaughter houses and leather tanning factories began to spring up here. These factories produced a fair amount of waste and unfortunately found their way into the Riachuelo (Little River) that lies east of La Boca.
During the 19th century, a heavy immigration of Italians, mainly Genovese began populating the Boca area. It is said that many of the poor immigrants could not afford paint and building materials, so they often bartered with the sailors and shipping industry for their leftover boat supplies. The variety of bright colors and corrugated metal exteriors was the result which is intentionally preserved and recreated to present day.
Fun facts
We, the people of La Boca: In 1882, La Boca actually seceded from Argentina for a brief period of time. Angry Genovese laborers decided to take action against the allegedly repressive government, but the rebellion was quickly quashed by the president himself, Julio Argentino Roca. The president himself and his army paid a visit to La Boca and President Roca personally removed the flag of the Republica Independiente de La Boca (The Independent Republic of La Boca).
Blue and Yellow: When the neighborhood soccer team for La Boca was founded in 1905 they quickly gained a name for themselves as a division 2 team. In 1906, while playing a rival team that had similar uniforms (Black and white stripes at the time), the teams agreed only one could have the color scheme. The winner of the match could keep their uniformz and the loser had to go in search of a new style. Boca lost and subsequently had to select new colors. The frustrated team decided that the flag of the next ship to enter the port would be the future colors of Boca Juniors. The freighter Drottning Sophia, hailing from Sweden, came into port and the uniform design moving forward was decided upon (blue and yellow).
