As the Porteños like to say “Lo que te mata es la humedad” (It’s the humidity that kills ya!). It probably won’t kill you, but the Buenos Aires summer will certainly try. Here are a few pools, beaches, cold drinks, and ice cream flavours to help you survive the summer.
Buenos Aires Playa:
Back in the good old days, Porteños looking for relief from the summer heat could whip down to the Costanera Sur and take a dip in the Rio de la Plata. Today the Rio de la Plata (or river of silver) is more like a rusty bronze and you’d have to be nuts to dunk your face in it. The city gov’s solution to this lack of beach was simple; just make one. From Jan through to March 2 parks are filled with sand and become ‘urban beaches’, perfect for stripping off and catching some rays. There are showers to cool off, sun lounges and umbrellas, football and volleyball, and music on the weekends. At Parque de los niños there is even a fishing zone!
Parque de los niños y Parque Indoamericano From Jan 9 to March 1st, Tues- Sun 10am- 8pm
As well as setting up makeshift beaches, numerous parks across the city are decked out with chairs and umbrellas for everyone to enjoy. Here are a few:
Plaza de las Naciones Unidas: Av. Figueroa Alcorta y Juan A. Biblioni, Recoleta.
Plaza Rubén Darío: Av. del Libertador y Austria, Recoleta.
Palermo: Av. Figueroa Alcorta y La Pampa, Palermo.
Parque Las Heras: Av. Las Heras y Av. Coronel Díaz, Palermo.
Rosedal: Av. Sarmiento y Av. Figueroa Alcorta, Palermo.
Tereré- Summertime mate
Drinking mate when it’s 30 degrees outside is like wearing woollen socks to the beach (hardcore mate drinkers will disagree). If you have taken to mate like the locals, Tereré offers a refreshing summertime spin on this traditional Argentinian beverage. Tereré is essentially just cold mate, but you can get creative with flavours and produce your own brand.
Fill mate with Yerba
Mix some Tang juice powder stuff (lemon or orange are good) in a thermo with cold water.
Add lots of ice to the thermo
Tear up a couple of mint leaves and throw ‘em in the bowl
Put in the bombilla (straw thing)
Head to the closest fake beach
If you haven’t yet acquired a taste for stomach medicine (known locally as Fernet), try Gancia. This herby, sweet aperitif has just the right amount of bitter and is the perfect addition for summer cocktail experimentation. Lemonade, mint, lime, ice, whatever, it all tastes good. Blend it, shake it, drink it straight on ice. It’s ridiculously cheap too!? Drink responsibly.
Sure, ‘eat ice-cream’ isn’t the most creative summer survival tip, but I will take any opportunity to rave about ice cream in Buenos Aires. The Italian classic somehow got even better when it arrived on these shores, and the Argentinian version is creamy, and sort of chewy, and… clearly I am not a food writer. Capricci in Palermo Hollywood is a charmingly modest establishment, that (arguably) serves up the most generous cucuruchos (cones) in town. Sitting outside the Capricci heladería eating ice cream (1 scoop dulce de leche 1 scoop white chocolate) at 11pm in Buenos Aires is the best possible relief from the summer heat. Also, like almost anything in BA, you can get a big fat tub delivered right to your door.
Parque Norte (Av. Cantilo y Guiraldes)
Parque Norte is a gigantic public pool and outdoor funplex. The three giant petal shaped pools get pretty busy on the weekends, but that is all part of the fun. On Saturdays the pools are roughly 3 parts water 2 parts people. There are slides, bars and restaurants, tennis courts, volleyball nets, and Paddle courts. Parque Norte is loud, crowded, and heaps of fun. Rent an umbrella and post up poolside.
Parque Sarmiento – Saavadra (Ricardo Balbin 4750)
With a pretty handy location, 2 big pools (plus a kids pool), and a host of courts and fields, Parque Sarmiento is another good public pool option in BA. The park itself is also a nice place to wander/ picnic in.
Parque Manuel Belgrano – Palermo (Salguero y Av. Costanera)
Parque Manuel Belgrano is a very large pool in Palermo. The water is cold. Do some bombs ’n stuff.
How to do a bomb:
Jump (into pool)
Hold knees to chest
Make maximum splash
Hotel with a Pool:
Home Hotel- Palermo
If you are in search of a pool but want a more luxurious experience, many of Buenos Aires’ smaller boutique hotels offer day passes. Some of these spots are pretty magical, like Home Hotel Buenos Aires, a super stylish boutique hotel in Palermo Hollywood. A day pass gives you access to their beautiful Pool Garden area, a locker, and even a robe. If you’re counting your pesos, the boutique hotel day pass might not be ideal, but it’s a fine way to splash out in the city when it’s hot.
Faena Hotel- Puerto Madero
If you really want to go ‘top shelf’, Faena hotel in Puerto Madero offers a day pass for a cool US$200. The day pass gives you access to the hotel’s lavish pool area, changing rooms, spa, hammam, and fitness centre. Alternatively, you could spend the money on a small plot of land in Jujuy.
Summer Weekend Trippin’
When it gets really hot in the city, the beaches to the South of BA beckon. If you have a few days to burn, join the hoards and head down the South Atlantic coast where you’ll find some beautiful beaches, coastal towns and cities. There are a number to choose from, here are a couple:
Mar del Plata: The second largest city in Buenos Aires province, Mardel is hands down the most popular summertime destination for Porteños. Think bursting beach resort, casinos, nightclubs, restaurants, and heaps of other entertainment. If you don’t have a car, Mardel can be reached by train or bus. Trains leave daily from BA at 1.45pm and arrive at 8.30pm. It’s a fairly long journey by train, but comfortable and very affordable. Pullman (the ‘better’ Class) is just $290 pesos.
Mar de las Pampas: For something a little less crowded, a little more picturesque, and a little more ‘ride a horse along the beach’, Mar de las Pampas is the spot. Nestled amongst a forrest of Pine and Eucalyptus trees, Mar de las Pampas is a charming resort town with a small village vibe. The beach is also much nicer than Mardel, and a lot less crowded.
Sheets in the freezer before bed.
Put the sheets in a bag first.