No trip to Argentina is be complete without a trip to Iguazú. In fact, returning home without a picture of the impressive waterfalls to accompany a colorful snapshot of La Boca really would be a crying shame. The falls are surrounded by some of the most beautiful scenery and exotic wildlife in Argentina. The Iguazú National Park is a subtropical forest with winding catwalks guiding you through view after view of the 275 falls along 2.7 kilometers of the Iguazú River. Some of the individual falls are up to 82 meters high and create quite a splash.
The park consists of five main attractions, ample activity for an entire day’s worth of exploring. I suggest starting with the upper circuit, viewing the top of the falls and the Rio Iguazú Superior, the instigator of it all. It is hard to imagine that such a placid river can create such wild chaos just feet away.
Next, take a leisurely hike around the lower circuit for spectacular views of the falls, great for wearing out the shutter button on your camera. Toward the bottom of the lower circuit, you can take a short boat ride to the San Martin Island. This little island hike also should not be missed, as it offers one of the best views of the falls. The boat to the island runs only until 3pm, so watch the time. For this part you’ll need a rain jacket because the mist from the falls can shower you a bit.
Since you’re already a bit damp, now would be a great time to hop on the boat into the falls. Be prepared to get totally wet as you zip wildly around the river. The boat drivers find great pleasure in offering an explosive, near-death experience as they drive the boat directly into the falls. Be sure to smile for the cameraman in the front. “Have a nice shower,” he says as you pull away from the dock.
Saving the best for last, hop on the train to Garganta del Diablo (Devils Throat). This U-shaped, 150-meter-wide, 700-meter-long conglomerate of water is sublime, and will leave you both shocked and awed.
Admission for non-Argentine residents is about $30 USD (2020), with discounts offered for Argentine and Mercosur residents, and for a second day pass. Tickets for the wet and wild boat ride are about $50 USD (2020) and can be purchased either at the bus station or inside the park along the lower circuit.
There is a shuttle service from the hostels and hotels taking you to the Iguazú National Park. However, if you partied all night and missed the 10 am shuttle, El Practico, a local bus, runs from the bus station to the park for $5 each way and leaves every 30 minutes until 7 pm.
The town of Iguazú is a fun and funky tourist town with a slew of pizza shops, souvenir stores, and one nightclub. The food is generally decent and economical, with similar mid-range pizza, empanada and parrilla options that you’d find in Buenos Aires.
If wildlife is your thing, you can see a plethora of native birds, including toucans and hummingbirds, some of which will eat right out of your hand. When crossing the river to the Garganta del Diablo, keep your camera handy for the hams perched on the rocks, funny little birds that pose for the camera, wings outstretched and head cocked to the side. Small monkeys can be seen swinging from tree branches and coatis are everywhere, begging for food and holding conversation with visitors. Ojo! These little buggers are aggressive when it comes to cheating you out of your lunch. Keep all food stored in your backpack and resist the urge to pet them, they are not as cuddly as they look. The park is also home to many endangered species, including the elusive jaguar and harpy eagles.
Have a second day to kill? After a 45-minute bus ride from Puerto Iguazú and a quick stop at passport control and you’ll be on the Brazilian side, where you really only need a half day to take in all the sites. After a short scenic walk to a bridge that extends into the river, you’ll find a 360-panoramic view of the Devil’s Throat, which is made up of hundreds of individual water falls crashing over an 80-meter cliff. Because the Brazilian side only has one main view point compared to the hundreds on the Argentine side, it gets very crowded, so your best chance at uninterrupted views and pictures is to arrive right when the park opens at 9:00 am. You can spend the rest of the day floating on the river in a rented kayak, or riding a bicycle around the many nature trails throughout the forest. Just watch out for jaguars looking for lunch.
Admission for the Brazilian side costs about $40 USD (2020), and as with the Argentine side, there are discounts offered for Brazilian and Mercosur residents.
Both the Argentine and Brazilian sides of the falls have numerous hostels and hotels in town, but comparable accommodations will generally be less expensive on the Argentine side. If you’re looking for a luxurious experience, the Gran Melía hotel is the only hotel located within the national park. Complete with an infinity pool, a rooftop bar, and exclusive access to the park after it’s closed to visitors, this hotel provides a truly 5-star experience.
For those with plenty of time looking to save some pesos, it’s possible to take an overnight bus rather than flying. The 20-hour bus ride between Buenos Aires and Iguazú can certainly seem daunting, but the Argentine busses are designed for comfort. It’s a lot like sitting on the couch for a very long time. A full cama upgrade is well worth the money and with the perks of whiskey, wine and champagne served with your evening dinner and a movie, it will prove to be a wise choice.
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