Vegetarian in Buenos Aires

The Great Steak Out, Vegetarianism in Buenos Aires

More than Lunfardo, more than Peronism, perhaps even more than tango, Argentina is ostensibly best known for its beef. For omnivores like me, Argentine beef is a real treat. But for my vegetarian friends, the perpetual presence of these beefy delicacies on the menus of local restaurants is a daunting obstacle.

Sure, it’s easy to avoid a big hunk of steak. Just don’t order it. The real problem for the meat-averse is that the Argentine concept of meat-less, is a loose interpretation of the term. Ham seems to sneak into omelets without warning, sausage creeps into delicious bowls of lentils, and ever so hidden, lard is a key ingredient to many baked goods.

So what’s a vegetarian to do in Buenos Aires? Fear not! After doing a little research, I’ve compiled a list of great vegetarian options, as well as a few things to ojo! (watch out for). So read on, and while you’re in Buenos Aires, bon apetite!

The Carne Conundrum
Before moving on to suggested dishes, it is important to know how to best tell your server that you are vegetarian and that you don’t want meat of any kind. Don’t ask for your dishes “sin carne,” as carne in Argentina specifically means beef. If you ask for something sin carne, your dish could arrive at your table harboring bits of pork or chicken. Instead, it is best to explain, “Soy vegetariano/a,” and be more specific in your requests.

The Usual Suspects
After just a couple days in Buenos Aires, everyone comes to realize that nearly every restaurant offers a few of the same options: pizza, ensaladas (salads), tartas (tarts), tostados (toasted sandwiches made with a thinly sliced bread called miga), and empanadas (pastry pockets with savory fillings). For the careful vegetarian, all of these options are good ones. When ordering a tostado, be specific. Your options will be limited to queso sólo (only cheese) or queso y tomate (cheese and tomato). With all of these dishes, it never hurts to specify that you’d like your dish, “sin jamón” (without ham).

The Empanada Issue
Empanadas are a tricky dish for vegetarians. Although fillings like choclo (corn) may suggest that these pocket meals are vegetarian friendly, much of dough used to make the tasty pastry shells of our beloved empanadas contain lard. If you are concerned about the presence of animal fat in your diet, it is best to first inquire, “¿Es la masa hecho con grasa de cerdo/grasa vacuna/manteca de cerdo?” (Is the dough made with lard?).

Traditional Argentine Fare
A trip to Buenos Aires is not complete without a visit to a parrilla (or grill). A grill filled with dozens of steaks, and a restaurants filled with the smell of cooking meat, may not be a vegetarian’s ideal. But vegetarians daring to venture into this territory are not without options! So long as the veggie-lover in question does not object to their food sharing cooking surfaces with meat, some good vegetarian dishes offered at these restaurants include, provoleta (a slice of provolone cooked on the smokey grill), parrillada de vegetales (a rare offering of vegetables cooking over coals), and milanesa de soja (a fried soy patty, akin to its beef counterpart).

Another great option at the parrilla is the tortilla, an eggy concoction with potatoes and onions. Be careful not to order a tortilla española, however, as the Buenos Aires version of this common Spanish dish involves either ham or salami. Instead, ask for a tortilla de papas (potatoes) or a tortilla de acelga (fennel).

Comida autóctona
Some of my favorite restaurants here in Buenos Aires are those specializing in comida autóctona, a term used to describe those dishes traditionally cooked in the northern regions of the country. At restaurants like Cumaná (at Santa Fe and Rodriguez Peña in Recoleta), vegetarians will delight at dishes like the cazuela de calabaza (a casserole of squash and corn, topped with a melted wedge of honey-soaked cheese), potatoes topped with an assortment of cheese and vegetables, and salads.

Old Reliable: International Cuisine
No matter where they call home, vegetarians the world over share the common appreciation for Indian, Chinese, Peruvian, Japanese and Mexican restaurants for their vegetarian friendly menu offerings. As is the case elsewhere, these restaurants may be harder to find, but the spices and cooking methods used by the chefs at these restaurants offer more flavorful and adventurous dinner fare. So take a stop into any one of the restaurants in Chinatown , or splurge on a few courses at Tandoor (a great Indian restaurant at Laprida 1293, corner of Charcas in Barrio Norte).

Vegetarian Restaurants
Restaurants specializing in vegetarian cuisine have also popped up throughout Buenos Aires. To find these specialized eateries, be sure to check out the
Guía Oleo (an impressive website database with ratings and reviews of all Buenos Aires restaurants, in Spanish) or the Casa Saltshaker Blog (an English-language blog with great reviews of most of the restaurants here).