Chacarita Neighborhood Guide

At a Glance (the vibe)

In a few words, Chacarita is the place to be. Easily one of Buenos Aires’ coolest areas, Chacarita is a charming neighborhood nestled to the west of the much bigger and louder Palermo. And, thanks to its location just outside the typical tourist’s path, Chacarita has managed to hold on to its local feel, despite the influx of stylish eateries, and cultural hot spots. A quieter neighborhood filled with leafy streets, Chacarita maintains its old school Buenos Aires feel. However, this laid-back neighborhood has one of the best up and coming gastronomy and nightlife scenes in Buenos Aires.

A brief history

In the early 1600s Chacarita was owned by a Jesuit order until their expulsion in the mid 1700s. The land was then purchased by the Crown, and transformed into a summer retreat for University students. Then, the Yellow Fever outbreak hit in 1871 only three years after a Cholera outbreak. The city was low on burial ground, and the bourgeois Recoleta Cemetery opposed the burial of epidemic victims. Thus, the Chacarita cemetery was created in 1871, becoming Chacarita’s most defining landmark. At around the same time the Lacroze brothers established a horse drawn tram line between Chacarita and Pilar. This ended up proving to be an important trade link between the capital and the Buenos Aires Province, further integrating Chacarita into the city. The Federico Lacroze train station is still a fully operational train station and important gateway to the providence.

What to do

The most popular daytime activity in Chacarita is paying the famous cemetery a visit. Spread over 95 hectares (235 acres), and taking up about 20 times as much space as the Recoleta Cemetery, the Chacarita cemetery is massive. Although less flashy than its counterpart in Recoleta, unique architecture and famous names can be found here. While many of Argentina’s political elite were laid to rest in Recoleta, Chacarita was a more common choice amongst artists. The most famous of which is tango legend Carlos Gardel whose mausoleum is situated in the third row to the left of the entrance.

Fun Fact

Carlos Gardel’s tomb is the most visited in the Chacarita Cemetery. Some of his fans honor the tango icon’s memory by “smoking a cigarette with him” at his grave site. Before smoking their own cigarette, it’s customary for his admirers to place one between the metal fingers of Gardel’s statue. His birthday is the most popular day to visit so, if you happen visit his mausoleum on December 11th, you’re bound to run into other fans smoking and singing one of his famous tango songs.

There is a huge outdoor market every Saturday and Sunday at Parque de los Andes, a two block park situated directly to the east of the Cemetery. This market has a more local vibe than the San Telmo and Recoleta fairs, and less touristy prices. You may have to wade through a lot of knock off clothes and junk. But, with a little patience you can discover some diamonds in the rough.

Located on Olleros and Cordoba, the Espacio Cultural Carlos Gardel is a culture center the embodies Chacarita’s identity. This small and colorfully painted building has existed since the early 1900s, but didn’t become a cultural space until the early 2000s. After the 2001 economic crisis the neighbors banded together to recondition the warehouse into what it is today. Throughout the week they put on various theater productions, musical performances, workshops, tango classes and art exhibitions. A great place to meet new people, try something new, or appreciate the arts.

Safety

Take note that the area between Fraga street and the train station is a villa (slum) and is best to be avoided, especially at night. The rest of the neighborhood is generally a quiet, safe and residential area. As always just make sure to be aware of your surroundings, and keep any valuables out of sight.

Eating and drinking your way through Chacarita

Now for the real star of the show; Chacarita’s up and coming gastronomy scene. For many years Palermo was THE destination for trendy bars, restaurants and cafes. However, this has shifted over the last couple of years, and many of the most exciting new hotspots are popping up in Chacartita. Head to one of the hot spots on a Friday or Saturday night, and you can expect long waits, good food, a trendy crowd and no stuffy white table cloths in sight.

Restaurants:

When Proper’s dessert chef broke out on his own we knew his latest endeavor was worth checking out, and it didn’t disappoint. Combining fresh ingredients and delicious flavors the New Zealand born chef’s menu offers some of the best Mexican food in Buenos Aires. With only a few tables inside and outside, and devoid of the cliché sombrero décor characteristic of many Mexican joints, Georgie’s Tacos has a low-key vibe that lets the food speak for itself.

Obrador is making a name for itself with a menu comprised of contemporary international along with classic Argentine cuisine. From vegetable curry and pumpkin ravioli to bondiola and provoleta on sourdough, they are serving up dishes for carnivores and vegans alike. The art adorned walls, leafy patio and frequent live indie bands only manage to up the cool factor further. All in all, a great spot for happy hour, dinner, late night, or date night.

Cafes:

Located right across the street from Obrador, La Falena is a book worm’s dream come true. The dreamy European terrace, comfy couches and artfully curated selection of books make this cafe/bookstore an easy place to lose track of time.

Buenos Aires is home to countless cafes. But, it’s not always easy to find one that is both serious about good coffee and so charming. Housed in a renovated penthouse, complete with soaring ceilings, lots of greenery and a Parisian esthetic, La Noire is a cozy cafe to sip a espresso and indulge your sweet tooth.

Bars:

A must stop for whiskey fans, Sede Central de Whiskey offers a an impressive whiskey list and a delicious selection of signature cocktails. The atmosphere is buzzing during the week, and absolutely packed most Fridays and Saturdays. Not a whiskey fan? They also offer beer, wine and other types of cocktails, but not even sampling one of their trademark whiskey sours would be a shame.

For a refreshing aperetivo and old school barrio feel, head to La Fuerza bar and distillery for a vermouth and tonic. Distilled in Mendoza with over 40 botanicals including sage, elderberry and lemon verbena, La Fuerza’s vermouth was the only non-European vermouth recognized at the most recent International Wine and Spirits Competition. Thanks to the casual vibe, traditional Argentine fare on offer, La Fuerza makes locals feel at home, and gives foreigners a window into authentic porteño culture.