City Experiences, History and Culture, Historical and Cultural Sites in Buenos Aires, Featured Content

El Ateneo Gran Splendid Bookstore

Jorge Farah

By | September 2, 2019

rows upon rows of books in theater bookstore

Why would I want to see a bookstore? El Ateneo isn’t just a bookstore, it’s a beautifully refurbished 20th century theater, cafe and record store!

A surprising amount of people don’t know about El Ateneo bookstore or formally know as the Ateneo Grand Splendid. Images of its gorgeously-lit interior started popping up on lists of “Must-See Places” all over the internet and was even named by National Geographic as “the world’s most beautiful bookstore”. For a certain kind of individual — the kind that finds themselves titillated by pictures of seemingly endless rows of books — El Ateneo represents a kind of mecca; the ultimate destination for book lovers everywhere, where old-fashioned paper & ink rule supreme.

Buenos Aires famously holds the record for most bookstores per capita, but few of them hold a candle to Ateneo Grand Splendid. A beautiful venue that first opened its doors as a theater a century ago, its halls are rich with history. Not only was it the site of many legendary stage performances by some of Argentina’s most famous tango figures, it also served as a radio station and recording studio. In the 1920s, the theater was converted to a cinema, screening the very first “talkies” to make their way to the country. It was finally turned into a bookstore in the year 2000, conserving much of its classic layout and decor.

The southernmost reaches of the neighborhood of Recoleta, where El Ateneo is located, are especially busy, even by Buenos Aires standards. Upscale clothing stores and touristy restaurants circle the convergence of Santa Fe and Callao avenues, a block from where El Ateneo is located. As a result, it can get a bit chaotic and overwhelming, particularly on weekends. This is why it’s especially nice to be able to get away from it all by simply sneaking into El Ateneo (which, despite the heavy foot traffic, is still a relatively quiet affair). Pick up one of the books from its large selection and grab a seat in one of the store’s reading areas. Perhaps one in the balcony, providing you a lovely view of the entire venue and allowing you to soak in the gorgeous surroundings. The former stage, which has been reworked into a café, features a grand piano, and there are often live performances of tango and classical pieces.

More than a bookstore, a gift shop, a coffeehouse, or a tourist attraction, El Ateneo is a living document of the city’s rich cultural history, and one of the most unique spots in town. It should definitely be on your list of things to do in Buenos Aires.

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