Buenos Aires is one of the easiest major cities in the world to navigate, but also one of the cheapest. Unlike some other major metropolises (ahem Tokyo, Sydney, London…), Buenos Aires has affordable public transport 24-7. It is surprisingly convenient and easy to use, provided you have a little know how and confidence in how to use it. Not only will you see more of the city and understand better how it fits together, you will save a lot of pesos for more important things like steak and happy hour.
SUBE card
“La tarjeta SUBE” is a local electronic fare card used for the subway, train and bus system. It is 100% necessary to get one if you plan on using the great public transit system of Buenos Aires. You can no longer pay for individual subway tickets at the stations (Jan 2020) and most, if not all, buses have removed their cash payment systems.
You can purchase a SUBE card at many convenience stores (kioskos), post offices (correos) or any other store that displays a SUBE sign. Keep in mind that when purchasing a new SUBE card, there will be an initial charge of AR$90 total for the card itself (Jan 2020), not including the amount of credit to be added. You can charge your SUBE at the convenience stores (just say, “Recargar mi Sube por favor.”), some supermarkets or at the ticket booths at the subte stations (the station clerk will direct you to hold your SUBE card to a blue electronic pad somewhere on the window until the display reads ‘Okay’).
Tip: SUBE cards can go up to -AR$54 pesos in case you are in a bind and did not get a chance to top up your card before heading out.
Tip: Ask the hotel concierge or apartment rental agent/owner if they have a spare SUBE card from previous guests to save you the time and a bit of cash getting a new one.
How to use buses in Buenos Aires
Buses, or colectivos as they are locally known, are surprisingly easy to use and will get you around Buenos Aires pretty efficiently. The great thing about the Buenos Aires bus system is that it isn’t centralised. To get from one side of the city to another, it isn’t necessary to pass through the city centre. There are dozen upon dozens of routes criss-crossing the city so that you are almost within a two to three block radius from a bus that will take you to where you want to go.
To newcomers seeing these colour-coded buses hurtling down wide avenues or narrow streets may seem somewhat challenging at first. However, follow a few simple steps and you will soon navigate the city like a porteño in no time:
1. Google Maps directions functionality has become quite accurate and appears to be the easiest app to use. Just plug in your start and end addresses, and select which transportation option you prefer (bus, subway, cycling or by foot).
Once the addresses are entered, you will be presented will several options, highlighted to show the exact route through the city. The downside to Google Maps is it doesn’t give you a precise arrival time for the bus or subway. In Buenos Aires, this isn’t necessary as the buses for most lines come fairly often, every ten minutes or so during the day (much less frequently late at night) and every three or six minutes for subways.
2. Google Maps will point out the nearest bus stop to you that is moving in the direction . To find the correct stop, look for sign posts or sheltered bus stops bearing the number of the bus line. It will be located on the righthand side of the road in the direction you wish to travel. Stops are easy to find. Look for the lines of people standing on roadside. The App will also give you the nearest street corner to your destination to disembark. Again, I recommend using Google Maps on your phone to track your movements (see below). Don’t worry if you get off the bus early or late; buses stop every two-four blocks so you won’t miss your stop by much.
3. Line up to the right of the signpost. Flag down the bus and get on. Make sure you have a good handhold because the buses will shut their doors and begin moving the minute the last person steps onto the bus.
4. The price of the fare varies between AR$18 to $AR21 (Jan 2020), depending on how far you are traveling. All you need to do is tell the driver which street you are travelling to (ie Corrientes, Florida) and they will select the correct fare. Wait for the electronic touch card reader to display the fare, touch your card to reader and hold it there until the display reads: ‘Retire su tarjeta’. If the driver can’t understand your pronunciation, you can just tell him the max fee (AR$21) which will cover the cost of wherever you need to go. But best to mention your destination in case you are bordering a bus on the wrong side of the street or one that is taking a different route.
How to use subways in Buenos Aires
The Subway system in Buenos Aires is a far smaller network than buses, but handy for tourists wanting to travel between Palermo, Recoleta and downtown. For tourists staying in Palermo, Belgrano and Recoleta, the green line will be the most useful, as it will link you from Palermo to popular downtown destinations such as Tribunales (near the Teatro Colon), 9 de Julio station (near the Obelisk), Cathedral (near Casa Rosada/Florida street).
The subway is very easy to use and a map of the lines can be found here: http://www.buenosaires.gob.ar/subte/mapa. You can pay for your fares with a SUBE card only, AR$19 pesos per ride. Service runs from 5:00 am until a bit after 10:00 pm from Monday to Sunday (last trains leave from each end of the lines at around 10:00 pm).
TIPS:
– If you find yourself without a SUBE card try offering the cash fare to a local that has a card.
– Some of the larger stations will have central platforms but most are split-platforms which means you’ll need to enter the station from the correct side of the street. Please note that the train lines run in the opposite direction than most countries here (they travel UK style). So before you pass through the turnstiles, make sure you check your direction of travel which are based on the last stop on the line.
– Avoid peak periods such as 8am-9am in the morning and the after work rush hour from 5pm-7pm. Subway cars can become unbearably packed.
Late Night Transportation
While the subte shuts down around 10 pm, buses run all night (albeit only once or twice an hour). In Buenos Aires, people stay out late and you will often see young people headed to night clubs between midnight and 2 a.m. Consequently, there are people riding public transport all night, especially over the weekends in Palermo. If in doubt, take a taxi! It’ll be considerably more than AR$20 pesos, but they are still relatively inexpensive internationally speaking.
Public Transport Safety
As with any unfamiliar city, exercise caution. If it doesn’t feel right, spend the extra money and take a taxi. In general, Buenos Aires is a bustling city at all hours, but there are parts of town that will feel unsafe at certain times of the day. Use your intuition.
In La Boca, I would always exercise caution and advise using taxis. Avoid walking around except in the tourist designated areas by the port side around the PROA gallery. Be wary of the Retiro and Constitución stations at either end of the C subway lines. Both are major train stations and in poorer, riskier neighborhoods. Be wary of pickpockets. While riding public transport, keep your wallets in your front pockets and wear your backpacks on the front like a local.
Bikes, Rentals and Cycling
For those who are staying longer, Ecobici is a good free option for getting around. This option is not practical for short term tourists as it takes time to apply for an account. If you are a student or planning to stay a few months at a fixed address, this may be worth your while. Free, healthy, environmentally friendly and a great way to learn the layout of the city.
You may apply in person or online for an Ecobici account by requesting an appointment at your local city government office or downloading the app here.
For an in person appointment:
1. Open up a “chat” to request an appointment.
2. You’ll be provided with a date and time for your appointment.
3. Turn up to the appointment with your DNI and proof of address. This can be utility bill, an invoice from your landlord, a letter from your university, or an invoice from Airbnb.
4. Be on time. They will only wait 10 minutes for you if you’re late.
To register online as a foreigner:
1. Download the app.
2. Input passport and international credit card number.
The Ecobici stations are now all fully automated. You can check out a bicycle using the Ecobici App (iPhone, Android) to:
- Consult your travel history.
- Know the location and availability of bikes per station in real time.
- Consult the map of the network of protected bike lanes in the city.
- Make reports of incidents on bicycles, stations and / or service.
- Enter your ID and password to access the application.
- And of course to take a bike from the station. In the “Mi Viaje” section of the App, enter the station number in which you find yourself and select bike want to check out.You may use the bike for up to one (1) hour during weekdays or two (2) hours on the weekends. Failure to return the bikes in time will result in suspension of service; one (1) week for the first offense, one (1) month for the second; two (2) months for the third and the fourth time will result in de-registration.
A map of all the bike paths and stations can be found here: http://www.buenosaires.gob.ar/ecobici/sistema-ecobici/mapa-bicis
For short term visitors, consider hiring a bike (http://www.labicicletanaranja.com.ar/) to explore. Palermo and Recoleta has large parks and many dedicated bike paths to cycle around. Palermo Hollywood is a low density, leafy neighborhood with many stores, cafes and a large antique market, and also without much traffic which makes it an ideal location to explore by bicycle.
General rules of thumb for taxis
Sometimes you’re tired and you just need to get to where you want to go. The good news is taxis are very reasonable in this city. They all run on meters and are plentiful at all hours of the day in most neighborhoods. A handy app for arranging taxis is Cabify if you happen to not see any around or want some accountability with the taxi you are taking.
Uber in Argentina
(Updated Jan 2020)
Uber has been in and out of court, off and on “illegal” in Argentina and has been met with large demonstrations by taxi drivers and their union. However, it is still available at the time of writing. For the tourist passing through the city, it is a handy option if you are short on pesos or want to pay about 30% less than taxis as long as there is no surge pricing. The risk is for the Uber driver, who may face fines or having their vehicle towed depending on what the current political situation is.
Many travelers have reported Uber drivers either declining service if you are using a credit card or requesting a cash payment anyway forcing the rider to cancel the charge through the app after the ride. If you are adding Uber while in Argentina AMEX is not accepted in the system here.
More Tips and Tricks for Getting Around
Google Maps
While you may not have roaming data on your digital device, you can still use Google Maps to help you navigate the city. The trick is to load up a map of your planned itinerary on Google Maps on your device before you leave the hotel/hostel/apartment for the day. Your device will ‘remember’ the map in its cache memory, allowing you to track your location using the phone’s GPS without needing any data. The trick is to zoom in on the map all along your planned route or the area you are visiting, so that it will show the names of the streets and the various landmarks. You may also want to drop some pins of places of interest ahead of time.
WIFI
There are a number of free public WIFI locations that may be used in the city; on the subway and around major parks and plazas. Just keep an eye out for the free WIFI signs.
Alternately, you may want to get a local “prepago” SIM (pre-paid) card to use while you are in town. You can buy and charge these at many kioskos (corner stores). Just look out for the stickers and displays for either Movistar or Claro, both large networks of telecommunications service providers.
Data is relatively inexpensive in Argentina. WhatsApp is a major form of communication for that reason. Visitors will be baffled to see how often the locals are engaged in a constant exchanged of voice messages, instead of having an actual telephone conversations. What they are doing is sending WhatsApp voice messages back and forth. For the visitor, this means data is likely to be far cheaper than using Global Roaming with your mobile service from home. Many prepaid data plans include WhatsApp data free of charge.
If your Spanish is limited and you need assistance setting up the account, you can may visit a Movistar or Claro store, who would usually have English speaking staff to assist. I can recommend the Movistar stores at Florida 683 in Microcentro and Honduras 5473 in Palermo Hollywood.