Malbec, Glorious Malbec

When most people think of Argentine wine, it’s likely that the first thing they’ll think of is Malbec. Today this variety of wine is firmly established as Argentina’s flagship grape variety, and with good reason.

Perhaps surprisingly, Malbec actually originated in France, where it goes by a multitude of other names, such as “auxerrois” in Cahors in the south-west of France, or “cot” in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley. The Cahors Malbec is almost black in color and massively tannic. In many cases you’ve got to be a hardier soul than I to drink an entire bottle. Interestingly, the name “Malbec” comes from the surname of a Hungarian Peasant who spread the variety throughout France. There, Malbec used to be a common addition to cabernet sauvignon-merlot blends, but the filoxera plague in the late nineteenth century and the terrible frosts of 1956 lead to a dramatic fall in plantings. Today, there are significant Malbec plantings in Chile, the USA and Australia, though nothing that’s yet received international acclaim.

In Argentina though, it’s an entirely different story. First brought to Argentina in 1868 by a French professor, the Malbec grape instantly adapted to the climate and the particularities of the Argentine terroir (soil). Malbec needs lots of sunlight and heat to reach full maturity, far more so than do the better-known varieties like cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Argentina has heat and sun aplenty, plus a difference in temperature from day and night. The results are inky, intense wines, characterized by aromas of plums and cherries, and by chocolate, leather, coffee, raisin, and raspberry flavors. Malbec also ages well, and is well suited to oak aging. For those with more patience than myself, some of Argentina’s top Malbecs will be drinking well beyond 2030. And with whatever cut of steak you prefer, there’s a Malbec to go with it.

Heading into the winter, Malbec offers plenty to warm the heart and soul, not to mention plenty of alcohol, something characteristic of many of the top Argentine Malbecs. The high-altitude Malbecs of Salta (such as the wines of Raúl Dávalos) reach up to almost 17% alcohol, though you’ll only realize when you stop being able to walk in a straight line. Still, these wines are well-balanced, with delicious ripe concentrated fruit and can age and develop real complexity and depth without the influence of oak.

Moving south to Mendoza, the most acclaimed Malbec comes from the Luján de Cuyo region to the south of Mendoza city. Special mentions go to the Malbecs of Maipú and Valle de Uco. But how might one differentiate between the Malbec of these three famous wine regions? The Luján de Cuyo Malbecs have some earthy mineral notes; the Maipú Malbecs are characterized by their easy drinkability and smooth tannins; and the high-altitude Valle de Uco Malbecs are notable for their dark color, potency, and concentration. So now, time to go our and try some!

Some recommended Malbec across all price ranges:
Bargain Basement – Santa Florentina Malbec 2008 – Nicely balanced wine from La Rioja province, that reflects well the characteristic Malbec flavors of red fruits and cherry.

Mid-Range – Durigutti Malbec Clásico This winery was born in 2002 as the result of a combination of styles of two of Argentina´s top enologists, Héctor and Pablo Durigutti – Hector representing a more modern European style and Pablo more North American. Excellent value and a superb representation of the grape variety.Also gets a big thumbs-up from Wine Spectator.

Upmarket – San Pedro de Yacochuya – A unique, collossally full-bodied wine made by Michel Rolland and Arnaldo Etchart near Cafayate, Salta Province, at 2035 meters above sea level. Pair with grilled red meat, and ideally open at least 4 hours before drinking.

Super-Premium – Val de Flores 2004 – Another high-octane Malbec, from the Rolland-inspired Clos de los Siete project high-up in the Uco valley. Intense color, and dark chocolate, coffee, and dark fruit flavors. Aged 14 months in French oak, this wine will be drinking great well past the year 2030.