The short story: La Boca

As an art historian (and self-proclaimed nerd) there are few things I enjoy more than the random historical factoid. Whether ironic or tragic, weird or wonderful, these little nuggets of information are for the curious, here are a few highlights:

El Caminito

The brightly colored paint used to preserve the hulls of ships at port first appeared on the surfaces of La Boca’s brothels and dance houses during the turn-of-the-twentieth-century. Although these vibrant exteriors are still a trademark of this major tourist zone, many of the buildings that line El Caminito once functioned as a type of low-income housing particular to Buenos Aires, the conventillo (tenement). Abandoned by the Porteño elite upon the onset of yellow fever in the 19th century, these buildings were quickly converted into cheap housing for throngs of European immigrants. Within these formerly grandiose homes, several families would share a single bedroom (sleeping in shifts throughout the day), and as many as 30 families would share cooking, washing, and bathroom facilities. Low-income housing of many kinds, not just the conventillo, can still be found tucked behind the Caminito today, which is why most tourist guides advise visitors not to venture beyond the main strip.

Boca Juniors FC

By and large the biggest draw to La Boca would be their coveted football club, Boca Juniors. Legend has it that in the early 20th century Boca Juniors’ jerseys were so similar to an opponent that they decided to wager the colors on the result of the game. Boca Juniors lost the match, forfeited the jerseys and let fate decide their new color combo. The players decided that the next ship to enter the port would determine their new color scheme and luck has it that a Swedish vessel (blue and yellow) entered.

Today Boca Juniors are one of the most successful Argentinian teams boasting 67 titles. If you’re hoping to score tickets you may have a long wait ahead you of you to join as a member. The waiting list has reached 8 years!

La Bombonera

Ever wonder why Boca Juniors stadium is called “La Bombonera” or chocolate box? Apparently the shape from an aerial view resembles an old style sweets box. The stadium is quite steep with 3 sides stacking 3 decks and one side being a wall of VIP boxes. The result of the inclined build are fantastic acoustics and an intimidating field to play on as a visiting team.

The fans are dubbed Bosteros or those that work with horse manure by opponents. The nickname has become common among fellow Boca fans though and embraced over the years. Stemming from what the stadiums’ grounds originally were, a brick factory that used horse manure as a main component, today the 49,000 seat stadium literally shakes in some sections when a goal is scored. Want to learn more about La Bombonera? Check out this custom Boca Juniors stadium tour.

Want to read more about La Boca?
Emanuela Guano, “A Stroll through La Boca: The Politics and Poetics of Spatial Experience in a Buenos Aires Neighborhood,” Space and Culture 6 (November 2003): 356-376.

James Scobie, Buenos Aires: From Plaza to Suburb, 1870-1910 (New York: Oxford University Press, 1974).